Wear Your Stories: From Textile Waste to Inherited Threads.

(Written By: Shalini Rao)

The fashion industry stands as one of the planet's most polluting and wasteful sectors. Once garments are purchased and (partly-) utilised, many are discarded, thereby resulting in a significant portion of clothing ultimately finding its way to landfills or being incinerated. In a world engulfed with fast fashion and disposable trends, a shift towards preserving, enhancing, and maintaining inherited clothing represents a profound departure from the ‘throwaway culture’ that has come to define modern consumption habits. As textile waste continues to mount, fuelled by the relentless churn of fashion cycles from around the world, the significance of reclaiming and cherishing the garments passed down through generations cannot be overstated. In the fight between environmental consciousness and trend-driven fashion, the journey from textile waste to inherited clothing serves as a critical carrier of generational stories, meticulous craftsmanship, use of local resources and embracing longevity. This essay explores the transformative power of embracing heritage clothing - not merely as relics of the past - but as drivers for sustainable practices and deep-rooted linkages to our individual and collective heritage.

The Reality Of The Textile Industry:

Textile waste can stem from various factors throughout the lifecycle of clothing and fabric production. These include:

1. Overproduction:

The fashion industry operates on a fast-paced model, constantly churning out new designs and collections to meet consumer demand for the latest trends. This often leads to overproduction, where more garments are made than can be sold or utilized. Clothing production has doubled worldwide in the last 15 years, with consumers buying 60% more garments than they did in 2000 (Source: Ellen MacArthur Foundation).

2. Fast Fashion:

The rise of fast fashion brands has accelerated the pace of clothing production and consumption, encouraging frequent purchases of inexpensive, trend-driven items. These garments are often of lower quality and may be discarded more quickly, contributing to textile waste. A 2013 estimate by the Environmental Protection Agency (EPA) suggested that in the United States alone, 15.1 million tonnes of textile waste was generated, with the average American throwing away about 70 pounds of clothing annually.

3. Consumer Behaviour:

Rapid fashion trends and disposable clothing encourage excessive shopping and frequent wardrobe changes, leading to significant textile waste. According to The Waste and Resources Action Programme (WRAP), UK consumers discard about £140 million worth of clothing annually, with one-third of garments unworn for at least a year.

4. Poor Quality:

Low-quality materials and wholesale craftsmanship contribute to garments wearing out or becoming damaged more quickly, prompting consumers to dispose them off at an alarming pace. Nonprofits such as Fashion Revolution estimate that globally, one garbage truck of textiles is wasted every second due to poor production practices and short product lifetimes.

5. Lack of Recycling Infrastructure:

Limited infrastructure for textile recycling and reuse makes it difficult to divert clothing from landfills. Due to limited textile recycling programs in some regions, garments often end up discarded rather than recycled or repurposed. In 2018, only 15.2% of textiles were recycled, leaving the majority to be sent to landfills or destroyed, according to the EPA.

6. End-of-Life Disposal:

What happens to our clothes when they near their end? They are often discarded rather than repaired, reused, or recycled. The United Nations Environment Programme (UNEP) estimates that the fashion industry is responsible for 10% of global carbon emissions, much of which has deep environmental consequences.

7. Supply Chain Waste:

Textile production involves various stages that include spinning, weaving, dyeing, and finishing, the byproducts of which generate large amounts of wastewater that contain harmful chemicals. These also include unsold inventory and offcuts from garment manufacturing.

Source: Nordic Fashion Association.

Borrowed Inheritance As a Way Forward:

Addressing textile waste requires interventions at multiple levels, including changes in consumer behavior, improvements in design, manufacturing, transportation, and distribution practices, and the development of recycling infrastructure. What it also requires is embracing what lies at the back of our closets or forgotten in trunks in our attics – inherited assets in the form of clothing, jewellery, textiles, and traditional craft.

In many cultures, clothing holds immense sentimental value, often carrying with it memories of the past and stories of ancestors, geographies and craft. At its core, borrowing family clothing is an act of sustainability. By repurposing the existing, individuals can reduce the demand for new clothing production, thereby reducing the load on industries globally. This practice aligns with the principles of circular economy and traditions, where resources are renewed and their significance, sustained over generations.

Moreover, borrowing family clothing transcends mere sustainability – it is a way of honouring the past and celebrating familial heritage. Each piece of clothing carries a story, be it of garments worn during significant family events or reimagined by bringing several fabrics together. By wearing these pieces, people not only pay homage to their ancestors but also carry forward the traditions, practices and values embedded in those fabrics. The act of ‘borrowing’ fosters continued connections and embraces avenues for intergenerational dialogue with shared stories, revisited memories, and strengthened bonds.

In recent years, there has been a resurgence of interest in traditional crafts and techniques, further fuelling the appeal of family clothing. Many are now learning sewing and mending skills to repair and alter vintage garments, ensuring they remain wearable for years to come. This revival of craftsmanship not only adds value to the garments themselves but also encourages a deeper appreciation for the time and effort that went into creating them.

(L to R): Hand-knit blanket repurposed from generational fabrics; traditional carpet weaving in Srinagar; preserved south Indian silk

(Images © Author).

Heritage clothing serves as a powerful marker for sustainable fashion, embodying principles of longevity, quality, and cultural preservation. By embracing timeless tradition and honouring artisanal craftsmanship, these garments offer an alternative to the fast fashion model, promoting mindful consumption and environmental responsibility. As consumers, we have the power to support heritage brands and contribute to a more sustainable and culturally diverse fashion landscape. As we navigate an era of fast fashion and disposable consumer culture, the practice of borrowing family clothing serves as a powerful antidote. It reminds us to cherish the past, embrace sustainability, and forge meaningful connections with our loved ones. In doing so, we not only acknowledge where we come, from but also pave the way for a more sustainable and connected future.

In ‘learning to preserve, maintain and enhance’ the existing, we equip ourselves with authenticity, education, accessibility, and longevity – all crucial markers to live a sustainable life with a rooted approach to consumption and sustainable storytelling.

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